A visit toBetws-y-Coed reveals a region steeped in living history -- alive not just in the buildings, churches and roads, but in the people, who speak one of the world's oldest living languages.

North Wales -- from the Llyn peninsula and the Isle of Anglesey in the west to Snowdonia National Park in the east -- is the best place to experience the culture of the British principality.

Wales long has been known for magnificent castles, high peaks and coastal resorts. But tourists are starting to come for the unique and ancient culture, which the Welsh are only now learning to promote.

To immerse yourself in Welsh culture, it's best to leave the coast behind. While North Wales has some pleasant beaches, the weather is often too cold and wet to make a beach vacation enjoyable.

But, further inland, hiking and biking trails pass through woods and fields of startling green, dotted with ancient castles and herds of the ubiquitous sheep.

Betws-y-Coed a small village on the banks of the Conwy River, is an excellent base for a vacation in the Welsh outdoors.

The main street, Holyhead Road, is dotted with inns and bed-and-breakfasts. Two shops specialize in outdoor gear, and the friendly staff at the tourist center provide maps and advice on day trips in the area. There is also a large collection of books about Wales and an interesting museum featuring Snowdonia.

Bicycles are readily available in Betws-y-Coed for Mountain Biking

A long bike ride or hike in the chilly Welsh air, sometimes filled with a light drizzle, will help diet-conscious tourists understand why traditional Welsh cuisine is heavily dependent on butter and cheese.

Welsh rarebit -- a dish consisting of cheese sauce with a mustard tang poured over buttered toast -- might sound like a heavy dish for a midday meal, but it seems natural in the Welsh climate.

You can try the rarebit at Tu Hwnt I'r Bont, a 15th-century stone cottage in Llanwrst, on the other side of the Gwydyr Forest from Betws-y-Coed.

The teahouse, situated on a riverbank, its roof level with the road, is prepared for tourists: Its low ceiling beams bear warnings for diners to "watch your head" in languages from German to Arabic.

The Welsh cuisine, which locals concede once was heavy and laden with fatty meats, has recently become more refined.

Glamorgan sausages are touted as the original vegetarian dish, created by the Welsh out of vegetables and cheese for times when meat was pricey or scarce.

Afternoon tea is served with buttered bara brith, a loaf bread similar to -- but lighter than -- fruitcake.

Many walks star near the center of Betws-y-Coed on its way to Conwy Falls, and other parts of Gwydyr Forest

Visitors to Betws-y-Coed, and other towns in North Wales, will hear the locals speak Welsh, but they can also join in group lessons, advertised on signs posted around town.

This warm croeso, or welcome, is part of the Welsh culture -- expressed through the bilingual signs that greet tourists in every small town and the exuberant exclamations of "cheers!" from the teenage boys staffing a convenience store.

Since the 16th century, the Welsh have been dominated by the English in both the cultural and political realm.

Even though the English outlawed the Welsh language, it lived on through the singing, reciting and storytelling.

This year the Welsh got their first taste of self-government in 700 years -- a 60-member legislative assembly with limited powers, separate from the British Parliament.

Along with the heightening sense of national identity, opportunities for foreigners to experience Welsh culture -- beyond the customary warm hospitality -- also are on the rise.

In recent years, audio translations of the Royal National Eisteddfod, an annual celebration with theatre, music, recitations and competitions, have been offered to non-Welsh speakers. And towns and hotels are making Welsh culture available to guests on a smaller scale, says Esther Roberts, marketing manager for North Wales Tourism.

Every summer Sunday at 8 p.m., for example, St. Mary's Church in Betws-y-Coed holds a traditional Gymanfa Ganu, or singing festival. The congregation sings in English and Welsh, with locals asked to sing loudly during the Welsh songs to guide visitors.

Wales' rich cultural heritage has produced the likes of poet Dylan Thomas, singer Tom Jones and actors Richard Burton and Anthony Hopkins, but it mostly hasn't traveled outside Welsh communities.

Roberts says that's because the Welsh traditionally "kept their culture to themselves."

Compared to the Scots and the Irish, who send visitors home with a kilt or a wool sweater, the Welsh have not really put their culture -- their language, music and poetry -- on store shelves.

"We didn't talk about it. We didn't put enough importance on it," Roberts says. "Now we're teaching the message that there is a different culture."

When to go: The weather in Wales is fairly temperate: It generally doesn't get very hot in the summer, and isn't bitterly cold in the winter. The months with the best chance for good weather and no big crowds are April, May and October. June through September are generally the warmest and driest. (The weather is fickle enough in Wales, however, that you can't count on a dry summer or a wet winter.)

What to wear: As in the rest of Britain, you'll be the most comfortable if you dress in layers, both in summer and winter. At least a light jacket or sweater are recommended in all seasons. Getting there: The train trip from London to the heart of the Conwy Valley in North Wales takes only four hours. Get off at Llandudno Junction. From Llandudno Junction, the Conwy Valley line follows a picturesque route along the Conwy River from Llandudno to Blaenau Ffestiniog, stopping at Betws-y-Coed.

What to do: The landscape is the Conwy Valley's main attraction, viewed by foot, bike, car or train. The information centre in Betws-y-Coed stocks maps and guides to routes through the local forest and around Snowdonia National Park for hikers of various abilities. For the fit, Beics Betws will provide a mountain bike, helmet and map of bike routes, along with a patching kit. If you'd rather sit still and concentrate on the landscape, the Ffestiniog Railway will wind through mountain gorges with breathtaking views. The railway follows the same path it did in 1836, from the slate mines of Blaenau Ffestiniog (on the Conwy Valley Line) to the seaside town of Porthmadog. Children will love exploring Conwy Castle the town's nearly intact walls, and the so-called Smallest House, across from the sandy port.

In Betws-y-Coed, the Conwy Valley Railway Museum houses railroad memorabilia and, outside, has a tiny railyard with old steam trains children can ride on a track through the woods or conduct on their own along a smaller track.

Information: The Betws-y-Coed tourist information center is reachable at 44-1690-710426

Betws-y-Coed